by Ann Jones
Bukavu,
Democratic Republic of Congo -- The last time I was back in the U.S.A.,
everyone was talking about "change." Change seemed to mean electing
Barack Obama president and thereby bringing all Americans together in
blissful agreement. But real change isn't like that. Didn't the guy
who's got the job now promise to be a "uniter"? Real change has content
and direction. It's driven by courageous people unafraid to speak up,
even -- or perhaps especially -- when it's risky.
Anyway,
there are plenty of Americans I'll never agree with, so I'm in
self-imposed exile in Africa where I work with women who teach me a lot
about real change and the risks involved in going for it. The women I
work with live in the aftermath of civil wars -- in the midst of a
continuing war on women that's acted out in widespread sexual
exploitation, rape, and wife beating. They've had enough.
As a
volunteer with the International Rescue Committee (IRC), I go from
country to country, running a simple little project dreamed up by the
IRC's Gender-Based Violence unit. (GBV is the gender-neutral term for
what I still call VAW: Violence Against Women.) The project -- dubbed A
Global Crescendo: Women's Voices from Conflict Zones -- is meant to
give women a chance to document their daily lives, their problems,
their consolations and joys. It's meant to give them time and space to
talk together and come up with their own agenda for change.
Digital
cameras are the tool. I arrive with them and lend them to women, most
of whom have never seen a camera before. I teach them to point and
shoot -- only that -- and then I turn them loose to snap what they
will. I ask them to bring me some photos of their problems and their
blessings. They work in teams, two or three women sharing a camera and
very nervous at first. (Some women actually shake.) It takes the whole
team to snap the first photos: one holds the camera, another points,
another shoots. The teamwork they build is a step to solidarity.
Once
a week for four or five weeks these teams get together -- some 10 to 15
women in all -- to look at their photos and talk about why they shot
the things they did. For most of these women, whose lives are consumed
by endless chores, this is a rare chance to sit and talk -- really talk
-- with their neighbors. Most of them are non-literate. They don't have
television. Few have radio. Whatever news they get comes largely from
their husbands -- and husbands often tell them nothing, except what to
do. Excluded from public life, they have no say in the decisions of men
who determine everything from issues of sexuality and childbearing to
matters of war and "justice." Even at home, they're never asked their
opinion, never encouraged to make a decision about anything. For such
women, real conversation with other women invariably proves a
revelation.
For me -- listening in, asking questions
-- it's like the old days of the women's movement in the U.S. and the
informal consciousness-raising get-togethers that blew the collective
mind of my generation. Now a senior citizen, I have the privilege of
surfing another wave of feminism, a distant continent away.
What Women See
What
do they talk about, these women struggling to survive, to make a life
for themselves and their children in countries shattered by the wars of
"big men"? It depends on where you are. In Ivory Coast, village women
talk about having too much backbreaking work to do, while men do very
little. In Liberia, urban women talk about not having enough work to do
to earn the money to keep their husbands (who do very little) from
straying. In Sierra Leone, they talk about the problems of war widows
who can't support their children or send them to school or save their
young girls from sexual exploitation. In the Democratic Republic of
Congo they talk about the problems of gang-raped women, repudiated by
their husbands, unable to bear children, many literally ripped apart,
never to be made whole again. In all these countries, simple questions
quickly come up: Is this fair? Is it just?
Snapping pictures,
women see what a lifetime of experience already tells them: that men
run the world, the country, the province, the village, the home. In
these lands, men of all persuasions have waged disastrous wars -- most
lasting more than a decade, one (in the Congo) still unofficially going
on -- characterized by unspeakable atrocities. Even many men will admit
that they've made a terrible mess of things. In all these lands, when
armed men stopped shooting and called it "peace," they continued to
assault and rape and murder women.
The pattern of assaulting
women, once adopted as a tactic of war, has become a habit with
ex-combatants. Civilians have adopted it, too. In the Congo, rapists
now target little girls. One village women's group I work with in South
Kivu Province has reported five rapes in the last month of girls
younger than nine, the most recent, a six-year-old by the pastor of her
church. So any time women begin to talk -- really talk -- about their
lives, and the conspicuously different lives of men, the word "justice"
is bound to come up, even if the conversation concerns only the
seemingly trivial (though fundamental) question of who fetches the
water and who enjoys the bath.
The women to whom I
lend cameras take a startling number of photos of physical violence
against women: men beating women in the house, the yard, the street,
the market place. Men throwing women to the ground. Men wielding sticks
and tree branches and brooms. Acts of violence intended to punish women
for things they've done or left undone, or to force them to do things
they haven't the will or the strength to do. These are acts of violence
intended to control lives. Women can easily take these photos because
men feel free to beat women anywhere, anytime, without fear of
interruption or disapproval. War set the precedent.
Women take
many photos of abandoned women, often pregnant, with their children --
like the photo of a penniless young woman with three tiny children
living in the open on the outskirts of a village. This image is deeply
troubling in ways not obvious to an outsider. Most West African women
feed and clothe themselves and their children by working their farms,
selling produce in the market, making things for sale or trade. But the
house still belongs to the man, together with everything in it and the
land it stands upon. To be abandoned is to become homeless. The threat
of abandonment is what coerces women to endure all other forms of
abuse.
Women take pictures of economic violence, too. In Ivory
Coast, for instance, a woman photographed the family's cocoa crop: her
husband's share spread across the frame like a rich gray carpet, hers
-- as the principal farm laborer -- a tiny mound barely visible to one
side. A photographer in Sierra Leone snapped a shot of a woman working
knee deep in a pit of red palm oil, while her husband stood by to
pocket the proceeds from her sales.
Then there's the
labor of daily lives. Women take photos of women working in fields,
forests, plantations, markets, and homes; women cultivating,
harvesting, processing, selling, cooking, and serving food; women
washing dishes, clothes, babies; women sweeping houses and yards; women
fetching and carrying water, firewood, produce; women bearing burdens
of all sorts on their heads -- stalks of plantains, basins of tomatoes,
bundles of firewood, bags of laundry -- walking long distances to a
field, or the market, or the river.
Even in big cities, women
do these chores. In Monrovia, the capital of Liberia, women living in
the very heart of the city spend hours each day, trudging back and
forth to polluted wells in search of water. My computer now holds
thousands of photos of women at work.
What emerges from these
massed photos, first and foremost, is a bigger picture, a broader
definition of violence against women. It is not just wife-beating or
rape or sexual servitude. It is not just psychological tyranny and
threat. For countless women in village and town, violence against women
is life itself -- a life that demands relentless forced hard labor just
because they are women.
Showtime
Wherever I go, the
Global Crescendo Project culminates in a photo show. Invariably, in
every location, it is the
First-Ever-All-Women's-Photographic-Exhibition and a very big deal.
Each photographer selects her most important images. I print
enlargements and have them laminated. The photographers choose a venue
and extend formal invitations to the chiefs and sub-chiefs, notables
and dignitaries, families and friends, sometimes the whole village.
If
the show is held in a meeting hall or school, we mount the photos on
the wall. If it takes place under a village tree, the photographers
hold up the pictures themselves, for all to see. Each woman in turn
speaks about her photos -- why she took them, what they show about
what's right or wrong with the community, what must change.
What
happens then depends largely on local leadership. Outsiders often draw
broad generalizations about foreign "cultures" as if they were all of a
piece. In fact, African cultures are in flux and often dramatically
varied. Old traditions may be belligerently defended by one chief,
while repudiated by another in a village just down the road. African
"cultures" rest on the conservatism or courage of such men -- and on
the rising voices of women.
Last September, in the
village of Zatta in Ivory Coast, women photographers who had never
before attended a village meeting, spoken in public, or even dared to
look at a chief stood before the village notables in the public square
and showed their photos of women working hard. Then, Zounan Sylvie
displayed a photograph of a woman's bruised and bleeding leg. The
woman's husband had beaten her badly. Sylvie said the woman couldn't
take any more beatings and wanted the villagers to see a photo of her
whole battered body, but Sylvie feared that if the woman was
recognized, her husband might kill her.
At that, the chief
raised his arm. "I have heard your message," he said. "I do not want
violence of any kind. If such violence goes on in this village, it must
stop now."
After the show he invited the photographers -- who
had formed an organization called Anouanze ("Unity") -- to join his
council of advisors. He invited all village women to attend village
meetings. Overnight, cameras in hand, the women of Zatta village, who
had never had a voice in public affairs, moved to the center of
governance, and there they remain almost eight months later. This was
our project's greatest triumph, and a rebuke to those who adhere to the
truism, "Change takes time."
In February, at the photo
exhibition in the town of Kailahun in Sierra Leone, another powerful
chief denounced all foreign non-governmental organizations (without
whom his war-torn town would have even less in the way of health care,
schools, and food) and warned all the townspeople: "Do not speak of FGM
[female genital mutilation]. It is our tradition. We do not want
foreign traditions." He then stomped out of the exhibition hall,
followed by his cronies.
I was taken by surprise, for the
chief had once welcomed us warmly and, in the whole course of the
project, nobody had ever spoken about FGM. I make it a point to discuss
only issues the women themselves raise with their photographs; FGM is
an atrocity, but it is also a potent taboo.
After the show,
when IRC national staff members went to talk to the chief, he told them
he knew that FGM was a bad practice and should be stopped, but
gradually -- another believer that change takes time, despite the power
he can wield.
A week later, after I'd left, 500 women marched
through the town in a display of support for FGM, a display of loyalty
to the chief. They carried signs that said in Mende and English, "We
don't talk about it." I saw this as our greatest defeat until I got an
email from an IRC national staff member. "It's really a very good
thing," she wrote. "Before, nobody could even mention it. Now, thanks
to the chief, at least people are talking about how they can't talk
about it. That's progress."
"Your Eyes Are the Lens"
But
you see what I mean about the riskiness of change? A great many African
women are fed up with violence, fed up with their enslavement to work
and the sexual proclivities of men. They want a better life for their
daughters. They want to be able to send them to school and keep them
safe from the sexual advances of their teachers and other grown men (or
boys). They want change, and many of them -- like the battered woman
who wanted Zounan Sylvie to show her photograph -- are willing to put
their lives on the line.
In the South Kivu region of Congo,
where I'm working now, we've just had to put the project on hold for
security reasons in an area where the war seems to be heating up again.
The IRC's security specialists determined that women photographers
might be in danger.
The women themselves, who have already
survived acts of violence I can't bear to tell you about, were eager to
risk it. Their concept of risk is quite different from ours. One of
them told me she'd found it crushing to be "hated," even by her own
husband and family, after she was gang-raped by armed soldiers. She was
helped by joining a group of women survivors -- of whom there are
thousands. She was able to get over her shame, she said, when she
realized that being gang-raped is "normal."
Women's wants are
basic. They want their husbands to forgive them for having been raped
by others. They want their husbands to help with the chores on the farm
and around the house. They want men to take responsibility for their
children, to help with their support and care. They want men to stop
making senseless and devastating wars. One says, "We want to be safe in
our homes, in our country, and that is our right." Another says, "We
have a right to dream of a free, safe country. It is possible."
("Right," like "justice," is word such women increasingly use.)
What
would these women I've been working with like to see in five years'
time? Vera dreams that all the broken buildings will be rebuilt and all
the girls and boys will go to school together. Anna hopes to walk
freely in the streets, without fear of assault. Mantina hopes that
women and girls may be safe in their homes. Annie dreams that women
will be self-employed. Esther prays that girls will be educated and
take up positions in government. Kebeh hopes that her sister, paralyzed
during a gang rape, may walk again. Betty wants women to act in
solidarity. She says: "We are like a bundle of sticks. If the bundle is
loose, men can pluck us out, one at a time, and break us. But a tight
bundle of sticks cannot be broken."
When the show is over, I
collect the cameras, pack my bag, and move on to the next country.
Local staff from the International Rescue Committee continue to work
with the women and support their agenda for change. As I write, I've
just been informed by email that, after IRC staff and women
photographers in Sierra Leone displayed their photos to a parliamentary
committee, the women were invited to mount an exhibition for the full
Parliament.
We don't give away the cameras because there's no
way the women could maintain them or get the photos processed; and more
important, they don't need them. This project isn't really about
photography. It's about women's voices rising in conflict zones in a
global crescendo of pain, protest, and hope. The camera is a device to
encourage new ways of looking. The discussions the women organize
around the photographs stimulate new methods of analysis and advocacy.
My IRC colleague in Ivory Coast, Tanou Virginie, told photographers
they didn't need cameras. "Your eyes are the lens," she said. "The
memory card is in your brain. And the picture can come out of your
mouth."
I repeat that to all the photographers I work with.
And they get it. One photographer in Liberia told the women's group,
"Some people use cameras. Some people are cameras. Me, I'm a camera."
Throughout
the conflict zones of Africa, among women worn out by violence and wars
in which they've had no voice, no role to play but that of target, and
who now have no desire but to feed their surviving children, there are
some women who have picked themselves up, reached out, and organized to
help others. They've formed groups with names like Unity or the Commune
of Women. They are smart and courageous, and many of them are angry.
They are looking anew at the lives they've been handed by men and
"tradition." Some of them took part in the Global Crescendo Project --
seeing things with new eyes, talking things over, speaking up, and
arguing persuasively for change. Amid the ruins of their countries,
their voices grow louder every day.